Edward Enninful on Modern Britain: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than in the 90s.

An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 altered the path of a teenage Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the capital's electric 1990s cultural landscape, progressing from mannequin to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of the iconic i-D.

"That time was the peak of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I felt we’d be kindred spirits. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness."

Although Enninful appears sentimental, he is in good company. Lately, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. But over the last thirty years, Enninful feels a significant change. "I feel, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he says. "This isn't just this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

Shifting Attitudes

This regression is difficult to overlook: the growth of nationalist groups, the reaction against progressive values, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the previous decade, currently a more divisive political force looms as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an symbol of national pride, has become contentious again.

For Enninful, the response has long been to champion culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, including a diverse array of influential figures from music.

"Individuals with a platform should use it," he asserts, referring to those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain hadn't been a open country, if it hadn't given my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I cherished. I hope this phase will fade."

Hope in the Next Generation

He draws solace in the youth of today: "They’re much more aware than we were. They talk about unconscious bias – I didn't even know what that was."

Those early experiences would shape a trailblazing career marked by boldness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first male, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured landmark covers showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and people from all walks of life. Importantly, sales rose.

"To overlook large portions of the population, it’s not just that you’re failing to represent – it’s bad for business," he states.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his first major project since leaving his previous role. He expresses a desire to continue being a "change-maker".

"My nature is to challenge the established norms. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the lawyers, the leader. Then we came to England, without funds, and I found myself on the margins. I was incredibly timid. My teachers declared I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being between worlds."

Defying the stereotype of fashion editors as loud and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and radiates serenity. His journey has involved challenges, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and substance use.

He has also faced serious health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to partial sight. "I experienced such a difficult period for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever is over, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

A Foray into Curation

This drive to fit into a box has propelled him beyond the industry that built his career. He is now putting together a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a group of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to evoke the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and highlight those who lacked due recognition at the time.

"Galleries sometimes neglected to celebrate the truly innovative creators because they lacked the expected background," he comments.

The magazine 72 itself uses a different business model, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "Our approach is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is part of a larger creative platform."

An Unstoppable Drive

Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His journey, he believes, is a demonstration to the power of pursuing your passions.

What would the younger Edward make of the man he has become? He laughs heartily. "He would be astonished, but he’d be pleased. Back then I was a rebel. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He adds. "Nothing is assumed. We lost our home, we fled our country. I came close to losing my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have doubted me my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve decided to do something."