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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.